Not
all paving has to be laid with mortar. A variety of modern paving
materials is available for the handyman to lay without special skills
or training.
The
durability of the finished job depends on the sub base underneath.
It should be firm and smooth, (N B. If the finished job is going
to be subjected to heavy traffic, the sub-base must consist of concrete
bedding and backing).
Any
holes or soft areas should be filled with rubble bound with sand
and rammed smooth. Soil should be excavated to the desired depth.
Plastic sheets placed underneath will prevent weeds growing through.
Unjoined concrete slab or old roads are also suitable if sound,
clean and the right level. As with all building projects, local
council regulations should be observed.
Some
kinds of edging boards are needed to stop the paving stones moving
when walked over.
They
are set out 1Omm above the planned finished height to allow for
compaction. Then a layer of sand, screeded smooth, is laid between
the edgings. It should be clean and sharp. Allow for the thickness
of the sand layer when working out the level of the paving. The
sand should not be walked on after screeding to prevent it compacting
unevenly. Only screed a short area of sand at a time.
Laying
the blocks.
After
screeding the sand level, place the blocks on the uncompacted sand
in the desired pattern. For example, make a herringbone pattern
by alternating pairs of vertical and horizontal blocks. If the first
course starts with a horizontal pair, start the course underneath
with a vertical pair.
The
first few rows of blocks must be placed with care to avoid moving
the others already laid. Once several rows are in position you can
work more quickly and firmly.
Cutting
edge pieces.
Once
a good sized area has been laid, cut blocks to fit the edges using
a block splitter or by sawing. Very small gaps less than 40mm are
better filled with a 4,1 mix of sand and cement mortar
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