Tools you'll need:

Measuring tool
Chalk or string line
Very sharp knife
31 x 1.6mm panel pins
Stapler gun
9mm-14mm staples
Brace and bit
Flathead nails
Hammer
Nail punch
Panel saw
Paintbrush

An inexpensive way to cover up an ugly ceiling is with ceiling tiles. Most tiles also help make a room quieter and increase thermal insulating properties, especially if an air gap is left between the tiles and lining material.

The tiles can be applied to new or existing ceilings, but should not be used under "wet" conditions such as when the building is not completed or on fresh concrete, brick or plaster.

The tiles may be fixed to 25mm or thicker timber battens laid over the ceiling, or they can be fixed direct to the ceiling if the surface is true and even. In both cases, the tiles are stapled into place. If the ceiling has only small irregularities, either method can be used plus a gap filling adhesive.

Setting out the tiles.
To ensure tiles at margins will be the same width, establish centre lines of ceiling in each direction. When cut, margin tiles should not be less than 75mm wide.

• If room width or length is more than an even number of tiles, locate tiles so that a joint coincides with the ceiling centre line Mark batten centre lines or positions of tile joints at 305mm centres, working from the ceiling centre line.

• If room width or length is just over an odd number of tiles, locate tiles so that the centre line of a tile coincides with the ceiling centre line. Mark the positions at same centres as above but working from 152.5mm each side of ceiling centre line.

Battens, if used, should be spaced at 305mm centres for all tile sizes, and a batten should be fitted at the junction of ceiling and wall all around the perimeter of the room.

Fixing tiles.
Most of the tools are in your toolbox already. The stapler can usually be hired, although it is a handy tool to have for a number of jobs.

1. Cut tiles for margins. Work out the widths of margin tiles so they will be equal on all sides. Measure width on face of tile from the bevel edge. On a solid base, cut tile face up using two or three strokes with a very sharp knife and slightly undercutting. When drilling for wiring or other fixtures, use a brace and bit.

2. Stapling tiles allow five staples per 61Omm flange fixed to battens, and one into flange corner at abutment with wall or fixed tiles. When stapling, hold head of gun against the bevel edge so staple is driven close to main body of tile. Drive staples flush with flange surface. Cut and fit first tile to room corner with both flanges away from wall. Establish the location of flange edge on second batten from wall by string or chalk line. Hold tile in position and staple and fix through flanges as for first tile. Drive one or two 38 x 1.6mm panel pins through face to wall side of batten.

3. Proceed along the row matching tongue and groove and making sure row of tiles lines up with string or chalk line. Fit tongues lightly into grooves without forcing tiles together.

4. Start second and following rows with full width tiles, taking care to line up edges and joints with previously fitted tiles. Cut final row of tiles 6mm less than actual width to allow fitting. Fix to wall side batten with 3 panel pins per 305mm side.

5. Adhesive fixing - cut and fit first tile to room corner as for staple fixing. Adhere tile into position. Apply eight walnut sized dabs of suitable adhesive to back of each tile, spacing six daubs equally about 75mm from each edge, and in two centres.

6. Press tile into position and slide back and forward to spread adhesive levelly and in exact position. Do not hammer to achieve correct level. Instead, remove tile and quickly adjust the amount of adhesive if necessary.

7. Continue gluing tiles into position in row against wall ensuring that edges line up. Continue fixing across room, bringing edges into moderately close contact. Make sure you level each tile on its adhesive base as you progress. Cut tiles in finishing rows 6mm short of wall to allow fitting.

8. Finishing finish at the ceiling perimeter with a shadow line (rebated edge) timber cornice moulding. Prime and undercoat the moulding before fixing and fix moulding to the wall, not the ceiling.