Materials you'll need:

• Sandpaper
• Suitable filler
• Long straight board
• Furring strips
• Nails or anchors
• Vapour barrier if required
• Mouldings
• Finishing nails
• Panel adhesive
• Wood filler
• Paper and pencil

Tools you'll need:

• Putty knife
• Screwdriver
• Hammer
• Measuring tape
• Level
• Scribing compass
• Plumb bob
• Sabre saw or coping saw
• Caulking gun
• Notched spreader
• Padded block
• Scissors
• Crosscut hand saw or power saw
• Drill
• Keyhole saw
• Mitre box
• Nail set

One of the best and simplest ways to disguise an unattractive wall is with panelling, which hides a multitude of sins. Panelling can also be used purely for the decorative effect it adds to a room.

Whatever type you choose, fixing is much the same, except with the real timber panels you punch the nails home and fill.

First, plan the job in advance so you use standard panels as much as possible. If panels must be cut, keep waste to a minimum by using the largest sections practicable. Remove any old wallpaper and loose or flaking paint so surface is clean and dry. Check for smoothness by moving a long, straight board across the surface and noting any high or low spots. Sand back any high spots and fill depressions with suitable filler. Allow patches to dry well before continuing.

Next, remove any mouldings, skirting boards, etc. If walls are badly cracked or uneven you should install lengths of timber about 25 x 50mm parallel with ceiling to take the panels. They are always needed for masonry walls. Fasten to the wall with suitable nails or anchors at suitable distance apart to support the panelling. Most panel sheets measure 240cm x 120cm. A length of timber every 45cm to 60cm should be sufficient to support most panels. A thin polyethylene vapour barrier should be placed under the lengths of timber on walls where moisture is likely to be a problem.

Two days before you plan to install the panels stack them in the room where they are to go so they can stabilise to the moisture content of the room.

Measuring and cutting.

Measure up from the lowest point of the floor to the desired height of the wallboard. Allow a 6mm gap at floor and ceiling for fitting mouldings. If the panels are floor to ceiling, they can all be cut at once if the floor-to-ceiling height varies no more than 6mm all round the room. If there is greater variation, measure and cut each panel individually. To cut panels to go around doors or windows, tape a large sheet of paper across the opening and press it against the frame to score it then cut with scissors. Use this paper pattern to mark the panel and cut with a fine toothed crosscut handsaw or power saw with fine toothed blade. Cut-outs for electrical switches etc can be made by first drilling a pilot hole in the board then cutting with a keyhole saw. Cut panels to fit corners by hanging a plumb line down from the ceiling close to the corner. Line the first panel up with the plumb line then use ascribing compass to draw a line down the side of the panel to match the wall contour. Cut the along this fine with a fine toothed saw or a coping saw.

FIXING PANELS.
Nailing:

Nailing is only recommended on patterns, which have parallel lines, which would help conceal the nails. Check with your supplier and use suitable nails. Panel pins are usually sufficient. If you must nail through a wall to reach the studs, make sure the nails are long enough to penetrate at least 25mm into the studs. Drive the nails every 150mm along the edges and about every 300mm through the centre. Check frequently to ensure nails are going into the timber.

Adhesive:

If using adhesive to fix the boards to the walls or timber battens, use the kind recommended for your type of panelling.

With some boards the adhesive must be spread over the back of the panels with a notched spreader, others you apply the adhesive to the battens with a caulking gun. Check when you buy the wallboard as to which you should do.

If applying adhesive to the timber strips run a ribbon across all the strips, or in a ribbon-like pattern if not using the strips. Place the panel against the wall and nail in place with a pair of nails. Pull the bottom of the panel out from the wall and prop with a scrap of wood until the adhesive becomes tacky. Then remove the block and press the panel against the wall. Secure it by pounding all over the surface with a hammer over a padded block of wood.

If applying adhesive to the back of the panel, lay the panel across a table or sawhorses (which have an old blanket thrown across them to protect the panel face). Spread a liberal coat of adhesive over the entire back of the panel then proceed to fit panel as described. Make sure it is firmly fixed, again by pounding over the surface with a hammer over a padded block.

Finally, cut and fit mouldings at ceiling and skirting, inside and outside corners. Use a mitre box and fine toothed saw to cut the mouldings to the correct angles, fix in place with finishing nails, punch the heads below the surface and fill with wood filler.