Flashing is the term used to describe the flat strips of metal sheeting
used at sills, joints between gutters and tiling or roof sheeting,
and around waste pipes and chimneys. It is designed to divert rainwater
away from these joins.
Two of the most common materials used are aluminium and sheet lead.
Sheet lead is very efficient but expensive. Its own weight ensures
it stays securely in place.
Aluminium flashing, while also efficient, is more prone to move with
movement in the building. The aluminium facing protects the bituminous
material underneath the flashing tape, which does the sealing. Because
the tape is also self-adhesive, it is very easy to apply to repair
gutters and flashing and many other jobs.
For larger jobs, you should cut a patch of flashing to fit. It can
be cut to size with tinsnips and fixed
in place with roofing cement, rivets or self-tapping screws.
The flashing should be checked regularly to ensure it stays in good
condition. Any parts that are cracked, torn or perished should be
packed with a suitable sealing compound.
These compounds are sold in cartridges for use with a caulking gun,
or in packs, which can be applied with a putty knife.
Small holes in metal flashing can also be repaired by first cleaning
the area then sealing with solder. Silicon sealers.
If the masonry is damaged and the flashing has come loose, chip out
the damaged masonry and blow out the debris then push the metal
flashing back into position and fill the crack with a suitable sealing
compound.
When replacing flashing, remove the old flashing first and use it
to cut out a new piece to the same shape. Chisel away the old compound
that held the flashing in place and replace the flashing, securing
it with roof cement. Ridge flashing can be fixed in place with either
roof cement or mortar. After the roof tiles are back in place, all
exposed nail heads should be covered with a sealant.
When flashing from a brick wall to a tile roof the flashing material
(usually lead) must be inserted into the brick joint. This is usually
done by the bricklayer and later folded down over the tiles by the
roof tiller. However, if you need to insert flashing after your
building is up you, will need to rake out the mortar to allow insertion
of flashing, and re-mortar or seal any cracks.
Bituminous paint. Flat roofs are frequently sealed with bituminous
materials, which are affected by sunlight after a few years. These
can be given a longer life if they are painted regularly with a
bituminous paint designed for the purpose. If the flashing has been
neglected and leaks are starting to be a problem, the only way to
track down the leak and repair it may be to remove the flashing
material, fix the leak and replace with new bituminous flashing.
Once repaired, it should be maintained with regular coats of bituminous
paint.
Valleys.
Valleys are the deep junctions where two roof lines join. The valleys
are usually preformed from pressed steel or other materials and
are bought in lengths as required Where the roof tiles come together
in a tight join, you can mend leaks by cutting aluminium flashing
into 30Omm squares. Bend it diagonally and bend the resulting triangle
so it forms two sides of a pyramid. These shapes are inserted under
the tiles and pushed up as far as they will go, starting with the
lowest course of tiles and working upwards. Holes in valleys can
also be mended with a patch of flashing cemented in place.
Caulking.
Another area that may require attention is the exposed joints where
two different materials are joined on the exterior of the building.
The joints between window and doorframes, and brick and tiles are
examples. The joins are made waterproof by caulking with a sealing
compound forced into the cracks from a caulking gun. Any areas of
caulking that have dried out or are damaged, should be repaired
with caulking compound.
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