Many
discarded items of furniture can be restored to useful life by simple
means. If joints in furniture have worked loose, take the pieces
apart (numbering them with a carpenter's pencil so you can reassemble
them later). Clean any glue off the old dowels and joins, and out
of holes and mortices, then reglue the joints and clamp together
until dry. If dowels have become too loose for their sockets, glue
a plug of wood into the hole and redrill to take a larger dowel.
Broken
rungs and legs.
A
broken rail or chair leg can be repaired the following way if the
break is straight across:
1.
Drill a hole in both pieces to take dowelling. It is essential that
the dowel holes line up exactly or the pieces will not align properly.
The tool to use for this is called a dowelling jig. This handy gauge
holds the drill used for boring the holes in the exact position
required. You can also use a set of dowel centres, which are small
button-like items. When the pieces are lined up, the sharp points
in the dowel centres make holes in the corresponding piece of timber,
showing where to drill the other hole.
The
diameter of the dowels used should be about a third the total timber
thickness.
2.
Cut dowels to fit, making them about 4mm shorter than the depth
of both holes, with the ends rounded so they enter the holes easily.
Cutting a groove along one side of the dowel with a knife will assist
the glue to grip firmly.
3.
Check the fit of the dowel before applying glue.
4.
Apply suitable glue such as PVA to all surfaces and clamp the pieces
together. A split leg or rail can be held with a G-clamp. Larger
surfaces can be clamped with a sash cramp which has wide jaws and
works like a vice, keeping the surfaces together by pressure from
the sides. A belt or web clamp can be used instead. This is made
from heavy duty webbing with a fastener, which has a ratchet action
to tighten it around the object being clamped. Make sure cloth padding
is used with clamps to protect timber.
To
replace a broken rail altogether, drill out the stump of dowel from
the previous joint. Cut a new section of rail (preferably from the
same timber and about the same age as the chair). Using a dowelling
jig as described, drill a hole in the new rail and insert dowel.
Test for fit before gluing, then glue into the dowel socket. Drill
right through the other chair leg and hammer in a dowel to about
1Omm below the surface of the leg. Drill a corresponding hole in
the leg and glue all surfaces, then join and clamp until cured.
Use a belt clamp around both legs, ensuring the legs are at the
correct angle. When dry, glue a plug of timber into the hole and
sand level with the leg, finishing to match the surrounding woodwork.
Joining
with metal plates.
If
a piece of furniture has split completely apart, dowel and glue
the sections as described. For additional strength, fix metal mending
plates across the split. These come in various shapes and make a
quick, easy and secure joint. A straight mending plate is simply
screwed into position with wood screws across the split, at right
angles to it. For a neater job, hold the plate in position and draw
around it, then carefully chisel out the wood a little deeper than
the plate depth. Screw plate into this mortice and cover with wood
filler to match surrounding wood. If braces holding the chair joints
become loose, they can be strengthened with angle versions of these
plates. They are screwed into position just below the old wooden
brackets.
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