|
Maintenance
is the key to a long, trouble-free relationship with your outboard
motor. The golden rule is to keep the motor clean always. After
each trip take time to spray thoroughly with a water repellent,
rust preventative spray. Your owner's manual may tell you the motor
is treated with corrosion preventatives but the extra care will
still pay dividends. While hosing the outside of the motor with
fresh water removes a good deal of the salt spray, it is better
to flush out the cooling system by running the motor immersed to
usual operating level in a tank, drum, or suitable flushing attachment
of fresh water.
To
carry and store.
If
your outboard must be carried and stored on its side, it is essential
that the power head (the upper third) of the motor is higher than
the leg or gearbox section. If not, rusting can result from water
still inside the motor.
The
motor must be turned over' once a week. This is done by simply pulling
the starting cord as if you intended to start the motor up. The
aim is to alter the position of the pistons and impeller in the
water pump. This small piece of attention should keep your motor
ready to go even if stored for long periods.
Servicing.
Most
owner's manuals recommend having new motors serviced professionally
three times the first year, after 3, 6 and 12 months' use or after
20, 50 and 100 hours. After that, once or twice a year is enough
if you look after it properly yourself in between services.
Spark
plugs.
Spark
plugs should be removed and checked once a fortnight. Look for cracked
or damaged insulation. Clean plugs with petrol and steel brush and
adjust spark gap to the manufacturer's specifications. Leave parts
clean and dry, and then rub a little graphite grease on the threads
before refitting to the cylinder head. Keep a spare set of spark
plugs handy.
Greasing
the motor.
A
useful tool for a boat owner is a grease gun, a simple gun-shaped
attachment which screws into a tube of waterproof engine grease.
The first supply can be purchased complete then refills obtained
to fit the gun. The shape of the tool makes it easy for the grease
to thoroughly penetrate important areas such as the swivel parts,
throttle connection and vertical shaft. While doing this job, you
should also remove the propeller and check behind it. If using the
boat frequently do this once a month as fishing lines and debris
can lodge around the prop shaft. After removing any debris, grease
shaft and replace the propeller.
Changing
the oil.
To
change the oil in your outboard, locate the two access points at
top and bottom. Remove the screws from both holes. The oil is sold
in a squeeze container to suit your motor’s H P. With the screws
still out, insert the bottle nozzle into the lower hole and pump
oil in until it seeps out of the top hole. Keep the nozzle in place
while you replace the upper screw then remove bottle and replace
lower screw, tightening it. Finally, remove the upper screw again
and top up with oil until it seeps out. These simple actions prevent
any air getting into the gearbox. For normal running, keep the oil
level topped up through the top screw only, adding oil until it
seeps out and replacing screw.
The
petrol tank.
Most
outboard motors use two-stroke fuel, that is, the oil and petrol
are mixed together and transferred to the engine. In a car they
are added independently and can last for several thousand miles
before needing to be replaced. In an outboard, the additives usually
found in car oils build up around the plugs, so it is necessary
to buy special two-stroke fuel for your outboard. It is advisable
to mix your own petrol oil mix. The manufacturer usually recommends
the proportions of petrol to oil. By doing this you can judge the
quantity of fuel required and ensure the fuel stays fresh in the
tanks. It is very important to use fresh fuel in your tanks.
|
